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 Six Pack Rebuild Service

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 I have been rebuilding "six packs" for 30 years. I will build your six pack to
 fit your needs... (YOU TELL ME YOUR SET UP) and I will jet and build to your specs! $350.00 + shipping This price includes (3) carb kits and labor rebuilding your (3) carbs! Jet plates and secondary diaphragms and metering blocks and main metering jets, and custom machine work is extra charge..  email or feel free to phone me from 9:00 am until 5:30 pm Monday through Friday. 1-765-825-6607 I am 75 miles east of Indy (All work guaranteed) And if needed I will help over the phone. I will send detailed step by step instructions so you can do the final tune! (NOW THAT'S SERVICE)   Warranty Information Disclaimer : These Carburetors Are Hand Assembled And Calibrated By Me. my carburetor rebuilding comes with a LIMITED WARRANTY from (30) days of purchase received. this is a modified / Race aftermarket item and i am not responsible for any losses or damage's that you may incur. Some calibrations and tuning may be required by you the customer. ALL SHIPPING WILL BE PAID BY BUYER AND NOT THE SELLER.    


Start installation "PLEASE LOOK  I HAVE MARKED THE FRONT AND REAR CARB ON THE BACK SIDE  OF EACH OUTBOARD" with the front carburetor first, and the middle carburetor and then  the  end carburetor , After the carburetor's are on the intake manifold , check and make sure that all the throttle linkage's open and close with no problems , the outboard rod's need to slide in the eyes with hardly any drag! you need to hold the levers on the outboard carb's so they are all the way shut! and when you open the center carb wide open pull the out board carb's wide open and make sure the linkage is bottoming out on the center carb's half moon loop, "YOU CAN LOOK DOWN THROUGH THE CARB'S AND SEE THE BUTTER FLY'S WIDE OPEN" and make sure when you release the center carb from wide open mood that all the carb's shut properly with out sticking or binding ! sometimes the  carburetor base plate gasket may need to be shifted a little before the carb's are tightened down completely , " AND MAKE SURE THE GASKETS ARE NOT BACKWARDS"  After the carb's are tightened down with no problems, install the throttle return spring to the throttle return spring bracket and to the throttle stud on the center carb and also install the throttle cable to the throttle cable bracket and have someone press the gas pedal to the floor and check to make sure that you are wide open and all carb's are closing completely! next you need to connect the vacuum hoses from the outboards to the center carb using 5/32nds vacuum hose and a 5/32nds vacuum "T" "FOR REFERENCE PLEASE LOOK AT ONE OF MY SIX PACKS FOR SALE" there are (2) vacuum ports  on the passenger side of the center carb, the vacuum nipple on the metering block is for the distributor vacuum advance and the other nipple from the the throttle body "MAIN BODY" is the main vacuum port to signal the outboard deployment . if the vacuum advance is not used make sure its plugged off! you are now ready to connect the choke rod to the center carb, "MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CLIP TO SECURE TO THE CHOKE ROD TO THE LEVER" which is  similar as the outboard rod clips ,the fast idle cam adjustable tab is on the passenger side of center carb also with a  slot where a small flat bladed screw driver can be inserted and bent to increase the fast idle or decrease the fast idle , this will be set close from the bench , but because of high idle with bigger cam shafts you may have to adjust for your set up? "BUT MAKE SURE AFTER ADJUSTMENTS THAT THE ARM CLEARS THE PLASTIC FAST IDLE CAM IN WIDE OPEN POSITION"  i have seen this stick and leave the carb's wide open! and DEATH can result! this is for cold start ups until the intake choke heats up and fully opens the choke flap on the center carb! the fast idle is set at 1,200 to 1,500 RPMS , depending on your set up? ALSO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD 1/2 LINE WRENCH TO START THE JOB WITH.  When installing the fuel lines , MAKE SURE THE FUEL INLETS ON EACH FLOAT BOWL IS TIGHT!  i like to hand start all lines together and tighten all lines up very slowly and snug  up all fittings the same amount "REMEMBER THE REAR FUEL LINE IS MARKED WITH BLACK PAINT AND THE PAINT MARK GOES UPWARD " Now lets check for fuel leaks! pull the coil wire from the coil and crank engine over (30) seconds so you get fuel to all (3) carb's and make sure your fuel lines are tight and not leaking and look at all (3) float bowls also for leaks! "TIGHTEN IF NEEDED" to be on the safe side i like to lay shop towels under all fuel lines in case of any leaks, that might make a mess of your pretty "HEMI ORANGE PAINT" Now once you see if there were any fuel leaks, you are ready to put your coil wire back into your coil and start your engine. To set your fast idle you will need to push your gas pedal to the floor 1 -1/2  pumps to engage the fast idle cam, "NOTE YOU MIGHT HAVE TO PUMP TWICE DEPENDING ON YOUR SET UP" ?  (PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT)  Once it warms up and the choke is fully open, you can adjust your engine idle and if necessary you will probably will have to adjust your idle mixture screws on the center carb for smoothness' and idle quality "MAKE SURE IF YOU ADJUST THE MIXTURE SCREWS THAT YOU TURN EACH SIDE THE SAME AMOUNT OF TURNS" now if you have a electric idle solenoid turn the screw in so it takes over the idle and back off the idle screw on the center carb by a 1/2 turn "AGAIN YOU MIGHT HAVE TO EXPERIMENT DEPENDING ON YOUR SET UP" now its time to take a test drive! Install your "BIG ORANGE AIR CLEANER"  And go for a spin! when you get back from the "HELL ON WHEELS" Pull the air cleaner and inspect for any possible fuel leaks! and if everything is ok!  "You Are Ready To Rock" Now for some weird reason you think the floats are low or high? you can unscrew the sight screws on the passenger side of each float bowl and see where you are at? if you have the stock or original float bowls , you will notice that the center carb sight screw is higher than the outboards are? i like to be able to rock the car a little so the fuel barely trickles out! on the out board carb's i like the fuel to run a little bit out of the sight hole! the reason for this is simple! because the outboards are lower than the center carb sight hole! "NOW IF YOU HAVE NEW OUTBOARD FLOAT BOWLS CHANCES ARE THEY ARE THE SAME LEVEL AS THE CENTER BOWL? " If that's the case they will be adjusted the same as the center carb!  if any adjustments need to be made? make sure you have shop towels laying on the intake and be very careful! because the engine needs to be running to properly adjust the float level ! to adjust the float up you will need to loosen the lock screw on top of the nut of the float bowl  I USE A 5/8 "S BOX END WRENCH TO TURN THE NUT TO RAISE THE FLOAT YOU WILL NEED TO TURN IT COUNTER - CLOCK WISE TO LOWER THE FLOAT YOU WILL NEED TO TURN THE NUT CLOCK - WISE . MAKE SURE YOU HOLD THE NUT WITH THE 5/8 WRENCH TO KEEP IT FROM TURNING WHILE YOU LOCK THE SCREW DOWN ON THE NUT! I set the floats right on , when i assemble them! its possible you will might have to re adjust the floats because of "ROUGH SHIPMENT" or too much fuel pressure ! (A WORD ON FUEL PRESSURE ) I like 5 P.S.I. MIN AND 7 P.S.I. MAX! A WORD OF WISDOM NO HIGH VOLUME FUEL PUMPS! A STOCK PUMP IS FINE! AND ALSO A WORD ON AIR FILTERS, THE K & N IS FINE FOR NON RAM AIR CARS! BUT FOR RAM AIR CARS A STOCK AIR FILTER IS THE TICKET! EVEN IF YOU ARE AT THE TRACK? THE STOCK AIR FILTER WORKS BETTER! '"UNLESS" THE CARB'S ARE SET UP WITH THE S/S PACKAGE THEN EITHER A  K & N  AIR FILTER IS OK OR (NO AIR FILTER AT ALL) .THE STOCK SIX PACK CARB'S ARE  SET UP FOR a AIR FILTER INSTALLED ,    THAT'S MY (30) YEARS OF SIX PACK EXPERIENCE , WITH STOCKERS AND RACE CARS! " enjoy your SiX PaCk  "............:)

Six Pack Carb List Numbers

1969-71 Holley Chrysler Six-Pack 3x2 Center Carburetor (Image)
1969-71 Holley Chrysler Six-Pack 3x2 End Carburetors (Image)

  Page last updated: February 20, 2006